TdF Day 30 - Beauned

Big breakfast spread at the Herteau chalet had us ready for the drive to Beaune in Burgundy. Drove through rain most of the way, but TD had insisted that sunny weather was arranged for our arrival.
The sun duly broke out as we approached the turn-off - another triumph of planning!
Met Team Langford at our nice apartment in the centre of Beaune. Time for a stroll around this very pretty place and the obligatory tasting of the local produce. Purchased a few bottles for medicinal use and as a sleep aid.
Slept well.

TdF Day 29 - Misty Mountains

Left Provence behind to head into the mountains of the Savoie region to visit our sometime boarder, Ciaran, and his parents near Bourg St Maurice. The drive was a long but reasonable one with a real mixed bag of weather.
Ciaran has stayed with us when training in Australia and we promised to visit. The added incentive was to meet up with our long lost daughter Elena who is staying a few days.
Had a look at the slalom course at Bourg and experienced the fun of negotiating the bends and steep slopes of the local roads. Fantastic dinner followed at the Herteau's with plenty of local wine! Thanks Aveen and Pascal.

TdF Day 28 - Eating again

The last day in Beaucaire and we discover our two best restaurants and a nearby winery. TD did not win points for late discovery, but at least we've had a good finish.
Last night it was a new place called Vintage, that had only a blackboard menu, but everything was terrific. Today we topped it with a formula lunch at Le Patio, in nearby Fontvieille where the food was innovative and first class. Entree included four different dishes, plats were great and desert beautiful .......all for $35 each. Dinner tonight will cheese and bickies.

TdF Day 27 - The Camargue

The day dawned bright and chilly, but warmed to a perfect autumn day. Gail felt well enough for a drive south of Arles to the flat wetland area at the mouth of the Rhone called the Camargue. It is the home of flocks of Flamingo and other waterbirds; and is also associated with beef cattle, bulls and the special white horses that roam the area and are used by the local cowboys. There is a strong Spanish influence and many vineyards.
We headed to the coastal resort town of Saintes-Maries del-la-mer. The beaches were at least sand, but pathetic by our standards. The town was simply crammed with restaurants specializing in local beef and seafood. We had to have the Paella for lunch. Seafood and a glass of Deutz champagne for Gaily had her feeling better.
Next stop was the medieval walled town of Aigues-Mortes which proved to be a really nice place. The 13th century wall is intact around the old town, and unlike Carcassonne, it was not full of tacky shops selling plastic swords etc.
Time for a little wine tasting and purchase before returning home for an excellent meal in a new local - a fuller day than expected.

TdF Day 26 - The Chores

Well past the halfway mark on the Tour and with rain forecast, it was an opportune time for a bit of housekeeping before another week of traveling gets underway.
TD first had to find the main supermarket on the edge of town and negotiate the aisles and checkout while appearing to know what was going on. Childbride then set up the hair salon so that both us could look "tres chic" for the remainder of the trip. Then add a little of the glamour of cleaning and washing to complete the morning just as rain began to fall.
Afternoon excursion was to Arles, which seemed to be crammed with American tourists. We really enjoyed it on a sunny Saturday 3 years ago, but today was somewhat drab and disappointing ......it just shows that you can never build something up in your mind too much.
Dinner was to be in the village of Fontvieille on our way back, as it has some of the best restaurants in Provence, but a big storm had the place awash. Gail then had a migraine, so a quiet night at home was the go.

TdF Day 25 - Orange and Avignon

Team Etho was off to an earlier start, keen to use reasonable weather while it lasts. We drove north to Orange to mainly see the best preserved Roman Theatre in the world. It is an incredible space that is still used today for opera and theatre. The town was also good for a wander, and we also managed one of the best lunches at restaurant Le Parvis. The food was a touch of class, as was the service for a very reasonable price.
We then drove back down to Avignon to look at the Palace of the Popes. A very interesting self-guided tour of a bit of 14th century history. I'll see your Pope and raise you one!

TdF Day 24 - Aquaducts

A morning thunderstorm was an unusual start to the day. Decided it was best to roll over and stay in bed. Woke to Katie skyping around 9.30.
Another late start had us changing plans for the day to more nearer sites.
First stop was the Pont du Gard, an unbelievable Roman aquaduct spanning the River Gard. Nearly 2000 years old, it took only 5 years to build, making many of Sydney's building projects look a little tardy. The whole area and it's museum we're beautifully done .... I'm glad I finally got to see it.
Moved on to Uze for a late lunch. This is where the water was drawn from for the series of aquaducts down to Nimes. Uze was another fascinating town to stroll through, but the final leg to Nime and it's Roman Colloseum had to be abandoned after the car misdirected us into a wine tasting in a caveau along the way. Wine and the tasting was so great that I splashed out on the Premium stuff at $6 a bottle. They were so generous that we headed home for a little rest, before a lat afternoon stroll along the Rhone and across the bridge to Tarascon for a look at Good King Rene's castle.

TdF Day 23 - Alpilles

Sunday is market day in Beaucaire and we felt we had to take a look. The town, apart from around the canal where expensive boats are found appears to very working class. The markets reflected this with mostly trashy merchandise and a disappointing food market.
We quickly moved on to look at nearby towns of Baux and St Remy de Provence in the Alpilles region. The countryside becomes more rugged and given over to vines and olives - just what you picture Provence to be.
Baux d P is build high on rocky outcrops and is classified as a beautiful village. Naturally on a sunny Sunday it was packed, so that we needed to walk uphill a long way from our car. The view and the town were worth the effort. Had another lovely lunch before Gail got a tablecloth that she loved ..... now we just need to get it home with all the baby clothes!
On to Saint Remy to battle more Sunday crowds, not helped by a fun fair going on in the middle. Fluked another car spot and had a wander around .... too many classy shops for my liking.

TdF Day 22 - Going it alone

After 3 weeks it feels different with the Pelaton cut in half. It is now a tour for two for the next week. After a slow start from Toulouse due to a 6 am wake up call at the hotel thru us off our rhythm.
The long drive to Beaucaire was all toll way and after 25 euro was contributed to French roads we arrived at our destination in time for a late lunch. Found Bar du Soliel for a good seafood lunch - we passed up the formula of 3 courses and wine for 12.90, but it also looked good!
Met John, our host, at the apartment which is very comfortable and did a little grocery shopping just across the Rhone in Tarrascon. We're looking forward to a slow time in Provence.

TdF Day 21 - Nothing Toulouse

Team Bayley's last day on the tour and we had to leave our Le Bugue house to get them to Toulouse for an early morning flight to Paris, then to Singapore via London .... Quite a trek!
The drive to Toulouse was more adventurous than first thought as our satnav Bruce sent us on an interesting course. He seems to have an unhealthy preference for D roads.
Not a lot of time to see the sights of Toulouse as it is a good sized city and we took a hotel closer to the airport.Took the bus in through Friday afternoon traffic and immediately struck by how young the population appears to be - its a university town containing most of the high-tech industries. Bars were jumping and when we trekked to find our preferred restaurant, it wasn't opened (of course).
Final meal with the Bayleys was at Le Coq Dor ...... The Golden Cock ...... But of course! Nice meal and good wines, finished by champagne at the hotel. Team Bayley will be surely missed in the Pelaton over the difficult second half of the tour. Margy was the team witch-doctor keeping us on the road and Micks running commentary kept up our spirits while the TD abused our car navigation.

TdF Day 20 - Mopping Up

Knowing that this was our last day in Perigord, we were on the road at the crack of 10 to see some of the most beautiful villages and towns that we have missed. First stop was the nearby village of Limeuil at the confluence of the Dordogne and Vezere rivers. We climbed up to top and again were amazed at how cars find there way up and down the narrow, winding lanes.
Next stop was a fair drive to the area of "bastide" towns. The most famous and best preserved is Montpazier where we found the market in full swing in the main square. Time for a nice lunch in the square while the market packed up, and then back to Sarlat, the unofficial capital of Perigord Noir. It is an amazing warren of medieval buildings and lanes in the centre. We all had a great time exploring.
Tonight on the deck we enjoyed our last evening of bread, cheese, olives and a TD special salad while the sun went down over the bridge. Au Revoir Le Bugue.

TdF day 19 - Vallee du Homme

This morning TD had to drive to another town to see a dentist. Much time spent worrying how I was going to get my message across. To my relief the dentist and nurse spoke better English than me.
Repairs underway the Pelaton set out on a tour along the Vezere valley where there are lots of prehistoric sites and chateau. Our main aim was to view the Cro Magnon paintings of Lascaux. We were lucky to walk straight into the 12.00 English tour and to also walk into two neighbours from Mount Riverview - it always seems to happen that you meet someone you know halfway round the world. The paintings are 17,000 years old and quite amazing.
Lunch in a very picturesque town of Montignac and then home again for relax on the terrace before dinner in a nice creperie in town...... It's that or baby food for the toothless TD.

TdF Day 18 -Market Day

A wet day and a sluggish start called for a rest day. TD had to seek some fix for denture and Tuesday is market day in Le Bugue. The girls were happy to spend the morning shopping in what turned out to be a very good town market. Dinner tonight is produce from the market - wine and food is so cheap. We avoided the local specialities of foi
gras and truffles, but maybe tomorrow
we will be adventurous. My experience with the French medical system was about as frustrating as our home system. Seems that most people have theirs fixed in another country - I will have to tough it out for a while until a bigger town.

TdF Day 17 - Dordogne Dreams

A slow start after our "rest day" of paddling. Intense physio had the Pelaton back on the road at the crack of 11. First stop was Beynac after a little malfunction from Bruce the navigator had us heading up a dead end at St Cyprien. Nice town but after a 23 point turn on a steep slope, the Tour Director was in mood to move on.
Fortunately we managed a park not far from Beynac and enjoyed a little stroll around its steep winding streets. On to nearby La Roque Gageac where the town is perched between steep cliffs and the river. Entertaining to watch vehicles trying to negotiate the main/ only street. Pelaton insisted on an earlier than usual lunch and a cruise down the river on a "gabare" boat along the river.
Last stop of the day was the bastide town of Domme, which is situated high on a hill above the river. The trip up and down was interesting but the town was well worth the visit. The views from the bar over a cool beer was spectacular. Only downer was the Tour Director needing dental work over a broken denture ..... French bread can be tough at times.
Easy dinner on our deck tonight as its been over 30 today and it's too nice looking over the river at night.

TdF Day 16 - Conquering the Vezere

After a lot of traveling today was declared a travel lay day. Rene Renault had a little sleep in the car park opposite our abode and the Tour Director allowed the Pelaton time to wash out their licra and such before a special treat was arranged for the afternoon.
"Canoeric" took us 12 kilometers upstream to Les Eyzies so that we could paddle back down to Le Bugue.
Despite a few protests and doubts that we would make it (a bridge too far), we completed the trip 45 minutes ahead of schedule - another PB for the Pelaton.
After a few celebratory drinks and a hot bath another treat was arranged - our first Asian restaurant in France for dinner...... Just when we thought it safe to order in French restaurant!
So much for the rest day!

TdF Day 15 - Dordogne at last

Another nice breakfast had us ready for the trip into the Dordogne. First stop was the town of Angouleme, where each year they run a car race around the ramparts of the old town. It is car lovers heaven, and Tour Director had added it to the itinerary for Make it up Mick to enjoy. It wasn't enough time for him to take it all in as cars kept coming into town for the race on Sunday. The quality and age of the cars was unbelievable and even us non petrol heads couldn't help but be impressed.
We dragged Mick reluctantly away to find lunch in Brantome, a beautiful town on our way to Le Bugue. This time the girls were reluctant to leave. Thankfully the Tour Director had a final offering to the Pelaton - our house for the week overlooking the River Vezere in La Bugue. Another PB was achieved as we sat on the deck watching the sun go down over the bridge before a stroll through our new home town.

TdF Day 14 - heading south

As a finale to our Loire experience the tour took us through country lanes to Chenonceaux for one of the most photographed castles. The experience of walking up a line of trees until the chateau and it's gardens appear is wonderful. The place is superbly cared for and has an interior just as incredible as the exterior. Now that we have become experts in the affairs of the French nobility, we could dispense with any guidance. Mick has been able to add has own brand of commentary. "Make it up Mick".
After lunch we made the long trek south into Aquitaine where the weather warmed and the landscape changed. A tired and hungry Pelaton found welcome sanctuary on our petit chateau. Etho's have the party wing with four rooms and two TV's ...... And a huge collection of Cognac to try at the bar! Fabulous dinner in the dining room followed.
Morning sprint has been cancelled.

TdF - Day13. Chateaud Out

Today we discovered that we could only do two chateaux in one day, especially when they are as big as Chambord! It is massive, with the largest walled park in the world. This started out as a humble hunting lodge for King Francoise I. The staircases and roof features are stunning, but after a couple of hours we realized we couldn't see all rooms, and just a little of the grounds.
Plan A was to head to Chenonceaux next, but a need for sustenance resulted in a stop at Geverny to look at a "little" chateau owned by a mere Marquis. It proved to be a great stop, with some local wines to taste and as the chateau has been in the same family for 500 years, it was in great condition inside and out. Their large grounds and a large pack of snarling hunting dogs were an added sight.
Tour Director took advise that the Pelaton was in danger of revolt if another chateau was attempted on the day.
Being completely chateaud out we retreated back to Blois for an early dinner at a traditional restaurant and bed. Chenonceaux will be added to a changed itinerary tomorrow.

Tour de France Day 12 - Chateau defloor

Morning highlight in Saumur was breakfast at Hotel St Pierre - incredible array of food served at the table topped by Fresh berries and crepes.
Fortified for the day the Pelaton followed along the Loire being sorely tempted by the numerous caves offering tastings - tour director reminded the crew of the big day planned that morning wine tastings didn't fit with. A morning visit to the Abbaye de Fontevaud brought a little piety into our lives. It is rambling set of buildings with an incredible history most associated with Eleanor of Aquitaine.
Lunch stop was at Azay de Rideau with its wonderful Chateau before driving on to Blois.
It was many years ago that we stopped here and the town has a rich history as a former capital of France. Another value meal at a Lyonnaise restaurant below the Chateau de Blois was followed by the lumiere (light show) detailing the castles turbulent history projected on the walls.

Tour de France Day 11 - wet and Loire

Woke to a wet day (first failure of planning) and set out early after a busload of tourists woke us from our slumbers ....another reason not to go on these tours.
Pelaton started on a two leg journey into the Loire. First stop was to be Le Mans so that Mick could visit the shrine of petrol heads. Plan was a quick lap of the Bugatti Circuit before a salivation over some important vroom vrooms. Plans were abandoned by the man himself when we couldn't find any directions to the museum or track. Rather than drive around in the rain, we moved on to our night stay in Saumur in time for lunch next to the impressive chateau. The town and hotel are ancient - being wine country we indulged in a little tasting of sparkling wines. Our conviction that the best places to eat are in wine areas has been born out again. Mick has not been able to keep the Etho pace all day but Margie was giving a good account of herself until a very enjoyable dinner at Bistrot Ton Ton proved the final straw - the owner spoke English very well and was very generous with the wine. Another fabulous experience. The tour may start a little later than planned tomorrow.

Tour de France Day 10 - St. Mick's

It was a little hard to leave Chateau Bellefontaine - we enjoyed our stay very much. Next accommodation will not reach the standard set, but the main aim is to get a little away from the tourist traps near Mount St Michel.
Our morning drive took the Pelaton through Granville - personal pilgrimage for me! Guide books told of a interesting resort town, but after parking in the centre we failed to find. Drizzly rain meant that we cut our losses and headed toward the Mount. Tour Director called a lunch stop as we saw it shrouded in rain and mist. Journey resumed when the sun reappeared for our walk across the causeway.
It is a spectacular site as you approach as it rises above a flat landscape, but the hordes of tourists and tacky shops and eateries detract from the experience. Short afternoon drive to Pontorson to stay the night in a nice little hotel, with a little touch of Fawlty Towers. Stroll into main street for a super value meal at la Grillon where the locals eat - main, desert and good wine for $25 a head. I could love this country.